The Unique Ecosystems of Southern Illinois
I could make a list of 289,005 reasons explaining why southern Illinois is the best part of Illinois. The 289,000 acres of the Shawnee National Forest (including Garden of the Gods) would make up the bulk of it.
The Shawnee National Forest and surrounding area is full of natural surprises uncommon across the rest of Illinois. The southern tip of Illinois is a biodiversity hotspot due to multiple ecotypes coming together. Illinois is home to the coastal plain natural division, which is a floodplain where the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers meet. This is actually the northernmost part of the Gulf of Mexico floodplain. Here, more southern species like cottonmouth snakes, tupelo and cypress swamps thrive.
The Shawnee National Forest’s Garden of the Gods
North of the floodplain lies the unglaciated Shawnee Hills natural division ecosystem. While the state is flat from Ice Age glaciers to the north, the canyons, cliffs and hills of the Shawnee were spared from the glaciers’ slow grind.
The most heavily forested area of Illinois is the Shawnee Hills. Within the Shawnee National Forest, there are many gems to explore (Bell Smith Springs, Snake Road, Jackson Falls, Pomona Natural Bridge), but the most popular outdoor destination in the Shawnee is Garden of the Gods. An engraving of the recognizable Camel Rock even made the state quarter!
The 1990 Illinois Wilderness Act designated the 3,000+ acre area surrounding the rock formations a wilderness area, and it is now the most-visited wilderness area in Illinois.
What makes the Garden of the Gods so special is the rock formations that peek above the forest canopy for amazing views of the surrounding hills. This is part of an ancient sandstone uplift that underwent erosion to create hoodoos and natural sculptures in the cliffs. For an in-depth look at the geology of the area, this University of Illinois report does an excellent job.
Hiking the Observation Trail at Garden of the Gods
The most popular trail in the wilderness area at Garden of the Gods is the Observation Trail, an easy quarter-mile trail across the top of the sandstone cliffs that make up the main attraction. Most visitors spend time taking in the scenery from the top, picnicking or exploring the geology of the cliffs.
The trail can get crowded at times since this is the most popular destination within the Shawnee. Going early can help with finding parking and solitude. Remember that these cliffs are part of a wilderness area, so hikers should use caution moving among the steep rocks. Tragically, there have been fatalities when visitors have fallen from the cliffs.
Nature and Wildlife at Garden of the Gods
In my opinion, springtime is the best time to visit the Garden of the Gods. Southern Illinois has incredible wildflowers, bird migrations and reptiles/amphibians waking up from the winter. Species like the cerulean warbler and bird-voiced treefrog can be seen in the Shawnee. Of course, fall is also a prime season for a visit to the hoodoos; it’s some of the most iconic leaf-peeping in Illinois.
More Hiking and Backpacking at Garden of the Gods
In addition to the Observation Trail, the Garden of the Gods wilderness has some other hiking and horseback riding options through the surrounding forest. The Indian Point trail to the south is a 1.7-mile loop through pine and mixed hardwood forests and allows you to check out some other rock formations and caves in the area.
Hikes from the Indian Point Trailhead
The 6.4-mile Garden of the Gods loop trail starts from the same parking lot as the Indian Point Trail, but hits the north side of the wilderness area instead. This loop is partially a section of the River to River Trail. It has more rock formations, waterfalls and creek crossings during the wet times of the year.
Another option for extending your adventure at Garden of the Gods would be to turn it into a backpacking trip. One of the two parking lots in the wilderness area allows overnight parking (The Backpacker’s Parking Lot). Access to the River to River trail opens up a world of possibilities for planning a rare Illinoisan backcountry adventure.
